Fabrics & Trims

Highest quality bespoke suit must have two most important things:

Perfect cut;

Natural high quality fabric;

and also last but not least:

High quality trims;

Perfect careful workmanship;

Below we would like to pass some basic info about fabrics quality:

WOOLS:

MERINO WOOL (MERINO)
Merino Wool is a natural material originating from the Merino Sheep. Merino has high levels of warmth, breathability and softness against the skin, particularly when compared with traditional wool products.

MOHAIR
Mohair is a fabric or yarn made from the hair of the Angora goat. Both durable and resilient, mohair is notable for its high luster and sheen and is often used in fiber blends to add these qualities to a textile. Mohair takes dye exceptionally well. It feels warm in winter as it has excellent insulating properties, while its moisture-wicking properties allow it to remain cool in summer. It is durable, naturally elastic, flame-resistant and crease-resistant. It is considered a luxury fiber, like cashmere, angora, and silk, and can be more expensive than most sheep's wool.

ALPACA
The natural fiber harvested from an alpaca. There are two different types of alpaca fleece. The most common comes from a Huacaya. Huacaya fiber looks similar to sheep wool. The second type of alpaca is Suri and makes up less than 10% of the South American alpaca population. Suri fiber is more similar to natural silk and hangs off the body in locks that have a dreadlock appearance. While huacaya fiber is similar to sheep's wool, it is warmer, not prickly, and has no lanolin, which makes it hypoallergenic. Alpaca fiber is naturally water-repellent and fire resistant. The designer Armani has used Suri alpaca to fashion men's and women's suits

CASHMERE Cashmere is a fiber obtained from cashmere goats, pashmina goats, and some other breeds of goat. It has been used to make yarn, textiles and clothing for hundreds of years. Cashmere fabric is one of the softest and most luxurious forms of wool, characterized by the fineness of the fibers, which are almost silky. It’s considered one of the most high-end fibers, as pure cashmere can be very expensive due to the involved production process, where the fibers are separated by hand from the molted coats of goats

VICUNA Vicuna wool comes from vicunas, which are South American camelids that live in the high alpine areas of the Andes mountains in Peru. The vicuna’s wool is exceptionally warm, which helps to regulate the animal’s body heat in freezing Andean temperatures. Vicuna coats grow very slowly, and sometimes they take as long as three years to grow back after being sheared. A single vicuna produces about 0.5 kilograms (1.1 pounds) of wool per year, which makes vicuna wool very rare and valuable. One vicuna fiber measures about 12 microns, or 12 thousandths of a millimeter. This makes vicuna wool incredibly soft

Top-quality, bespoke suits are usually made of natural fibres. The best choice is wool specified by „super” term. The S number is connected with diameter of fibres and fabric thickness. The most often we can get S range fabrics with value from 100s to even 250s. Extra fine S number wools may be blended with other yarn i.a. silk or cashmere. It is also possible to call as „-super” every other blend which contains at least 45 percent wool content. Following classification originated in England.



For about 200 years the finest producers of high-quality fabrics works in Huddersfield, West Yorkshire. The local climate and perfect quality of water makes their fabrics absolutely unrivaled. One of the best suppliers are

Bateman Ogden Ltd,

Holland&Sherry,

Scabal,

John Foster.

OTHER FABRICS:

LINEN
Linen is a sustainable fabric made from flax fibers. The flax plant has been cultivated in just about every country in the world and has been used to make yarn for over 6,000 years. The resulting linen textile is two to three times stronger than cotton and dries at a much faster rate. Because of its porous nature, linen has natural heat and moisture-wicking properties that make it a good conductor of warmth and a popular fabric to use for clothing in the summer. The natural fibers also hold dye colors better than some other materials, and thus the fabric is available in almost any imaginable color. Linen is also naturally anti-bacterial, which made it a popular choice for medical dressings.

SILK
Silk is a natural protein fiber obtained from the cocoons of the larvae of the mulberry silkworm Natural silk consists of two main proteins: 75% fibroin and 25% sericin. The fiber thickness is 10-30 micrometers, and the length of one thread from the cocoon reaches 400-1500 m. The shimmering appearance of silk is due to the triangular prism-like structure of the silk fibre, which allows silk cloth to refract incoming light at different angles, thus producing different colors. Silk haveexcellent air permeability and thermoregulation - in silk clothes the skin breathes easily, in the summer silk gives a cool, in the winter it keeps warm.

POLYESTER
Polyester is a synthetic fabric that’s usually derived from petroleum. This fabric is one of the world’s most popular textiles, and it is used in thousands of different consumer and industrial applications. Chemically, polyester is a polymer primarily composed of compounds within the ester functional group. Most synthetic and some plant-based polyester fibers are made from ethylene, which is a constituent of petroleum that can also be derived from other sources. While some forms of polyester are biodegradable, most of them are not, and polyester production and use contribute to pollution around the world.